Do collection accounts age off your credit report after 7 years?
So I have debt from store lines of credit to a bank credit card. I haven't paid on them since at LATEST December 2007. Chase, citi financial (store line of credit) and Sears line of credit all have it showing closed but I am getting reporting from some debt collector companies.
I live in Arizona and just ordered my actual credit report today. I viewed the information online through a credit score tracking website. I read a lot of comments and researched online somethings. My questions are can any of them take me to court still because from what I read some debts are 3 years and some are 6 here in Arizona, I am not sure what they fall under, also at 7 years they have to stop reporting to my credit so I am told. Does this mean that it will show the old reports but they cant continue to report and since the original lenders have the accounts closed can the debt collector who purchased the debt also show up as a closed account or do they just disappear forever?
Any information to better understand when or if this will ever not be an issue for me would be helpful, as these debts were ran up by my ex and are thousands of dollars I cant and haven't been able to afford to even attempt to fix.
Do collection accounts get removed from my credit reports after 7 years?
—Jennifer
Short answer
Yes, but the clock is not the one most people count from. Negative items stay on your credit report for up to 7 years measured from the first missed payment to the original lender, and every entry tied to that same debt should age off on that same date.
Key points on this page
- Original lenders and creditors show payment default for up to 7 years from when you stopped paying.
- The 7 years starts at the first missed payment to your lender, not at the date a collection agency or debt buyer picked up the account.
- All negative trade lines related to the same collection account should age off at that same 7 year mark.
- Only one entry for a bill should show an unpaid balance. If a debt buyer reports a balance owed, check that the original lender no longer shows one.
- A collection account reporting a newer date of last activity prolongs the credit damage, so compare that date against the original lender’s.
- If the debt is still inside the statute of limitations to sue, a dispute can wake a collector who was not bothering you. Weigh that before sending one.
Original lenders and creditors show payment default on your credit reports for up to 7 years from when you stopped paying on the account.
When you first miss payments to a creditor or lender, you will see late pays show up in 30 day blocks of time on your credit report. If the accounts remain unpaid long enough, those 30 day incremental late pays turn into a charge off reporting on your credit. With credit cards, charge offs normally occur within 180 days of consecutively missed payments (they can happen sooner than 180 days).
The 7 years the negative item stays on your credit report starts from the first missed payment to your lender.
When your accounts get this far behind, it is standard to have the account placed with outside collection agencies, and often repeatedly. Many creditors have a practice of selling off debts that remain unpaid long enough to debt buyers. They are legally transferring the rights to the debt to someone else, as is often laid out in your original contract with them.
Collection Agencies and Debt Buyers Showing Up on Your Credit Report
When an additional entry from a collection agency shows up on your credit report it is important to look for some key items:

- Is the new entry showing a balance due? A debt buyer who reports a collection account to the credit bureaus with a balance owed should be matched with the original lenders negative credit reporting to be certain that the original lender no longer shows a balance is owed to them. You should not have more than one credit entry showing an unpaid and due amount on your report for the same bill.
- Does the collection account show a date of last activity on your report that is different than the date your original lender is showing? Collection accounts that are reporting separate from, but related to an existing negative item on your report, should not show a newer date. If a newer date is used by a collection agency reporting, it prolongs the credit damage and will take longer for you to improve your credit.
All negative trade lines related to the same collection account should age off of your credit report at the same 7 year mark you use to calculate your first missed payment to your original lender. The exception used to be when people got sued for collection and ended up with a judgment over one or more of the debts – which would show in the public records section of your credit report for 7 years from the date judgment was entered in the court.
Most judgments obtained in state courts were taken off our credit reports with Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion as of July 2017
What to Do If You Need to Dispute a Collection Account on Your Report
I will have an upcoming article about disputing incorrect information on your credit report, but for now, it is important to consider the following:
If your debt is within the SOL (statute of limitations), to legitimately sue you for collection, you should carefully consider whether or not to send a dispute about a collection account on your credit report, even if it is showing incorrect information. When there is still room on the clock to sue you, sending a dispute may wake the collector to the fact that you are:
- Still an unpaid account.
- Care enough to start cleaning up your credit report (usually for some credit goals, which means you are more collectible).
If your debts are beyond the SOL to sue you legitimately, you should have less concern about waking a sleepy debt collector who may not have been bothering you, with disputes about getting your credit reports corrected.
Legislation was passed in 2011 that changed the SOL from 3 to 6 years in Arizona. Given the information you shared about 2007 being the earliest date of last payment, your debts may/may not be off of the current debt owner’s radar. You would need to be certain about the date each of account was last paid. Any of them you know were paid last in 2006 would be clear of the SOL.
Reviewing your credit reports for accuracy when you know you have old collection items is important. Staying on top of when and how to get your credit reports corrected will help you plan for future access to credit at fair prices.
If you have a particular issue or question you can post in the comments below for feedback.
Hi, I had a medical collection from sometime in 2008 in California, that was “purchased” by a law office ( in California) and now the last reported date is October of 2013. I have lived in Oregon since 2009 and was never sent any type of notice or bill until recently. My questions are could I have been sued without knowing, being out of state, and is the new date of reporting legitimate?
I want to be sure I am understanding your comment correctly… you had a medical collections show on your credit report, and later, that same account is appearing from a different debt collector. Does the original collection entry show a zero balance owed, or are there two collections showing for the same account, and both say you owe their respective companies? Is there a judgment showing in the public records section of your credit reports, or are we discussing general collection accounts appearing? What is the name of the debt collector last reporting in 2013? Is that the only collector ever reporting for this account?
Hi I have a question in regards to a private student loan from University of Phoenix in the amount of $4800 which have been charged off and transferred to CA by the name of optio solutions. I have not received any notice for collection. This happened in 2007 and was never paid on from that point according to my CR it says its scheduled to fall off Sept 2014 so my question is am I still within the SOL to be sued? Secondly if applying for a mortgage loan after the date for the collection to fall off will they still see it as a collection? Should I contact them to make arrangements before Sept.?
What state are you in?
Were you ever sued for this debt?
Its in California
No I was never sued.
I would not expect this to hold up financing after the date the credit bureau states it will be deleted. Are the dates similar across all 3 major credit reporting agencies? Home lenders often use a tri merge report for underwriting, so I would verify something is not on all of them.
My husband was pre-appoved for a mortgage back in Arpil of 2014 and since then we have been look for a home. Well long story short we found a home that we loved and sent all the info to the lender before we asked to view it. Our lender told us that everything looks good and if we like it then we should put an offer on it, so we did. We put any offer on it May 26, 2014 and our realitor gave us a closing date of June 30th. Well all we’ve been hearing from the lender is everything looks good that’s all everybody envolved has been hearing. We are days from closing and after not talking to our lender for 2 weeks he calls and tell my husband that his credit score dropped. About 3 weeks pryor he calls my husband on the phone tells him that there are some things that he would like him to pay off on his credit. My husband paid them immediately and tried to get letters stating that they have been paid. Now the same things that were on his report when he was pre approved and when everything was great are still there except for the 4 things that he was asked to pay off. How did his credit score drop if nothing was added to it but things were paid off of it?
Old negative items, like accounts sent to collections, get stale after a year and two. There is a certain amount of freshness that can get calculated into some credit scoring models when these collection accounts get updated as paid, or settled recently.
Not all scoring models will do this. One of the newer Vantage credit c=scoring models gives no weight to paid collections, and there is a FICO scoring model that does not factor paid collections on really small balances.
Did the lender tell you the loan cannot go through now, or that your interest rate has changed?
Hello,
I have a few questions pertaining to my credit report (Ive made a few stupid decisions when I was 18 😐 )
1) I have a public record from when I signed an apartment from dec.2008. Ive never paid it and it just says “Disposition unknown” in the comments. Does that mean that at the end of the year, it will be purged from my bureau?
2)Theres also 1 collections item that has 3 dates:
Date Assigned: 2011-03
Date of Last Payment: 2008-08
Date Paid: 2011-10
I know it takes 6 yrs to be purged, but from which date? The date I paid the collection, the date the collection agency received it OR the date the account in question was last paid?
Lastly ( dont judge me!), I have 2 items on my tradeline that were past due for 180+ days but never went to collections. I paid them both off in 2011. They look like this on my CB:
Date Opened: 2008-04
Date of Last Activity: 2008-09
Status: Bad debt, collection account or unable to locate
Date Reported: 2011-10
Comments: Account Closed,Account paid
Again, which date will they be purged from my Credit Report? Any guidance would be much appreciate.
1. It likely means it is not known whether the judgment has been paid, settled, etc. You can find out what the record shows for yourself through the court.
2. What state do you live in? When did you pay the collection account, was it Nov of 2011?
Negative trade line reporting that you are referring to can stay on for 7 to 7.5 years. There are some exceptions, like in New York, where paid collections stay on for less time, but unpaid debts go the 7ish year distance.
Thanks for your prompt reply!
I paid the collections item off in Oct of 2011….
Are public records also removed after the 7yr mark?
Not all public records are, but judgments for unsecured debts like credit cards will typically fall off your credit report after 7 years.
I’m having an issue getting two repossessions removed from my credit bureau specifically Experian. Trans Union and Equifax have both dropped off at the 7ish year mark, but Experian still show up and the reason it does is because the bank reported it being charged off on November 2012. I have documentation from the bank showing that they charged one off in May and the other June of 2006. I have sent this to Experian and they are telling me that the information is correct. What else can I do? Thank you in advance.
Also I have contacted CFPB but that got me no where it just shows the investigation is complete.
What is the name of a nearby larger city? I will send you contact info to any experienced fair credit reporting attorneys I can find. You should consult with one. Most will offer a no cost initial consult to review your situation and learn if their is anything actionable to pursue.
Who is the creditor or debt collector?
Springfield, MO is the closest big town to me.
The creditor is Community Wide Financial Credit Union in South Bend, IN
The closest with experience I found were in Kansas City and Columbia. Distance does not have to be an issue with situations like this, and the experience is what you need. If distance is an issue for some reason, ask for a referral to someone nearer you.
There are a number of items (10 total) that are scheduled to be removed from my credit report over the next couple months what can I do if they are not removed what is my recourse?
Have you calculated the removal dates yourself, or are you relying on dates the credit reports are stating that each item is set to be removed?
In general, when an item is too old to stay on your reports, but is still there, you send a written dispute. You can use online portals offered by each agency, but if they fail to do the right thing, and they do sometimes, you will want a paper trial. Which is another reason you use certified mail return receipt requested when writing to the credit bureaus.
Your dispute is simple enough; the item is too old to remain on your credit report. Be sure to include all of your info so that you can be identified clearly. It is best to include a copy of the agency credit report that you are disputing, with a highlighter pen covering the entry at issue.
Give the agency 30 days to respond to your dispute. If something that should be taken off your reports does not get removed, post an update and lets go from there.
Hi Michael,
So here goes. I have 3 debts from the same collections agency LVNV LLC. All from different Original Debtors. All 3 are already pass SOL and even 1 of them has already fallen off the credit reports(not sure when) after 7.5yrs. Currently I am in the process of purchasing a new home and the with the current credit report only 2 remains from LVNV LLC. So I opted to pay them off per request and condition of the loan. I managed to settled both accounts that was on the credit report and paid them off.
Question now is I wasn’t even aware of the 3rd one until I had called to LVNV LLC to arrange settlements for the other 2. They mentioned it on the phone to me as I was making arrangements for the other 2. But I told them I am not even sure if the 3rd was legit or even remember which the Original Debtor is. And Honestly I don’t. So I told them to handle the 2 for now and I’ll deal with the 3rd later when I get more information. Just today I received a letter from them stating I have 30 days to dispute the validity of this debt or the will ASSUME this debt is valid. Can they do that, Assume it’s a valid Debt? I want to dispute it, but how will that impact my credit, will it start the SOL all over? I will be typing up a dispute letter for the validity of the debt. What should I include in the letter. should i just say I am not responsible for the debt and what information should i request from them? And when they send back information about the Debt how should I handle the information Provided.
Much Appreciated
David
LVNV cannot put the account back on your credit report if the time for them to legitimately report has passed, and it sounds like it has. Your sending them a dispute letter, or even a cease communication letter (which I might do if it were me, but I do not know enough about your situation, and would wait to close on any loan just in case), whould not result in any additional credit reporting on the debt collectors part.
The 2 accounts that LVNV showed up for on your credit reports do not get to stay on longer now that they are settled/paid.
If you are serious about asking them for more details about the debt, you can send a simple validation request asking for who the original creditor was, how much is owed, etc. Send any letter certified mail return receipt requested. And keep a copy of all communications organized and in a file. You may need to refer back to details later on if mistakes in reporting do occur, or the debt gets passed along to other collectors.
After some research on the debt. The 3rd account was a charged off visa card from a failed business I had to close in 2007.
Since it has already fallen off my credit report and past the SOL. Would it just be better to send a cease of communications letter to the collector? Since currently I am in process of purchasing a new home. I would not want it to impact my borrowing ability at this time. And will this restart the SOL over, if I decide to ignore the letter? And if they decide to file a judgement, will that impact or go after the house I am purchasing?
Generally speaking, because the account is no longer showing on your credit, and the SOL to legitimately sue you to collect has passed, sending a cease communication letter would not impact you in any way, other than to stop the calls and collection notices from this collector. But you should talk with an attorney in your state that is familiar with debt collection and credit reporting from the consumer perspective. There are not many consumer law attorneys out there, so if you would like a referral, post the name of a nearby larger city and I will email contact details I find.
They cannot file a judgment with out suing you first, and if the SOL to do that has passed, you should not have to worry about this. If something did occur, it would be simple to resolve.
If I were you, and based on the details I have to go on, unless I wanted to pay or settle this debt for purely personal reasons, I would send a cease communication letter.
Okay so 2009 is when I got into that accident and in November is when I didn’t make a payment at all because I couldn’t drive the car so it started around December. I’m trying to rebuild my credit now I figured if I pay off all my credit cards and maybe do a secured loan through my bank and as long as im on time I should be okay.
What are your credit goals for the next 2 to 3 years?
Well right now I’m paying off all my credit cards leaving a 0 balance then I’m going to start paying off the small things that are in collections once I get my EMT job next year I’ll be making more money so then I can really save more, payoff the repo but also put more into my 401k
I have a repossession on my credit that’s through the finance company I had the loan through I’m trying to figure out when will it drop. The account was opened for the loan in 7/08 the car was repossessed in 12/09 because I didn’t have full coverage on the car and got into an accident so I gave up the car I think in 2/10 it was charged off but when you look at the account on my credit report it does say repo but it still gives the date it was originally opened which was 7/08 so my question is when will it drop.
In general it is 7.5 years from the date you first missed a payment, so after you bought it, but before they repossessed the car and auctioned it off.
Can you please tell me what the SOL on credit card debt is in Nevada? I have heard both 4 and 6 years. I have a number of defaulted credit card accounts that I last paid on in early to mid 2009. Only one of the many has sued me and obtained a judgment. I would like to start working on cleaning up my credit, but I don’t want to wake any of these creditors up since they don’t really bother me by phone or mail at all. If the SOL is 4 years then I am ok, but if it’s 6 and I start disputing things more of them could potentially sue me. What is the final word on the SOL? I suppose I could just be patient and let them all age off in another couple of years, but I would really like to try to buy a car and retire my old rattletrap. Thanks for any input you can give me.
What I looked up shows SOL of 4 years for credit cards, and 6 years for loans tied to written agreements. When there is confusion on an issue like this, it is sometimes related to how the SOL has been argued in your state courts. Your best resource would be to talk to an experienced debt collection defense attorney in Nevada. I can email you contact info to some if you like?
How many collection accounts do you have?
I have a $5000 and a $1000 medical collection from a hospital and ER services. I had medical insurance at the time. I thought all along they were sending claims to the new Insurance company but they never went back to review my new information from medical records. It shows that they have it, they processed the claim, but because of untimely filing the insurance company didn’t want to pay for it. I remember giving them my insurance card for the third time while in labor pain. 2 months after having my son I moved to a different apartment and the new mail was lost and we didn’t receive some of the mail that had the old address for a while so I missed on some statements/medical bills. 4 months after my son they sent it to collections, I called them we spoke and they said they would send again to my insurance company but they were sending it to my old insurance. I called back again hoping that it was taken care of, I’ve spend much every year speaking to them about them same thing over and over again talking to different people. I found out in 2012 and the insurance company denied bc of untimely filing. So again ,they never called to let me know that. SO this time around they tell me that bc they sent 3 statements that it is my responsibility now and I have to pay for it. I told them I would not because it was their negligence due to them not seeking my correct info from the hospitals facesheet. spoke to one of their members once and they mentioned they would tell their manager to review that this is a negligence from their part bc of the facesheet and that should’ve been taken care of. He even asked me to contact medical records and confirm I have the right ins. info. Even medical records said the same thing. I called the credit bureaus and they said to get a letter of proof that I gave them my ins information regardless of the year 2012. The bills are from Feb 2010. And they said they could remove them from my credit report. The medical company refuses to give me that information because they say they just dont do that. the credit bureau told me that they have to bc Its my account my information that it is illegal to keep it from me. I called the collections agency and they said they don’t have that information and they cannot provide it either. What other step would you recommend in order to get that information of proof that I gave them my insurance card.
File a debt collection and/or credit reporting complaint with the CFPB. Be as detailed with times, dates, and the names of companies involved. Start the complaint process here: https://www.consumerfinance.gov/complaint/
Please post an update with how you progress.
Hi Michael,
Who can I contact locally that can help me with credit issues like you do? I’m not looking for specific names but rather who do I even look for? A lawyer, a Credit Counselor, a banker, a mortgage lender? Who can legitimately help me out with advice such as yours, but who will go over every item on my credit report with me, and help me figure out which items need to be paid and which ones should be disputed or just waited out until they fall off my report?
Thank you immensely!
-Molly
Molly – I do not mean to sound egotistical here, but there are not a lot of me’s. Most people want to be paid, or have a chance at being paid (you are a prospect for say a home loan). And there just are not a lot of folks that understand the minutia of settling combined with near term credit goals, or that are not somehow regulated to a point of not being able to charge you for the type of help you appear to be asking for. Some options:
What city do you live in? I may be able to refer you to someone I know, or know of.
Are you looking to purchase a home, or refinance an existing mortgage? A savvy broker or loan officer (someone with a decade or more experience) who is going to be working on a loan would be a good fit here.
Are you willing to work with me off line to use your situation as a tutorial publicly on this site (not using your real name and the like of course)? You get me, no fee, and ultimately will be helping other people too (offer not available to anyone but Molly).
Hi Michael. Sorry for the late response; I somehow missed your reply and only saw it now as I read through your posts again. In response to your questions, I live in Vancouver, Washington. I am not trying to purchase a home anytime soon but would like my credit cleaned up for a future home purchase. And yes, I would be very willing to work with you off-line if you would be willing to do that. Thank you so much for your offer to help! :))
If you check the box to subscribe to comments before you submit one of your own to this site, an email will be sent to you every time someone comments on a page you comment to.
In between your first comment and today, I learned that some nonprofit credit counseling agencies have a program available where you can talk with a counselor about every aspect of your credit reports, how to understand them, and how you can make improvements, free. The call will not cost you anything. Call 800-939-8357, and press option 1 and ask if their counselors have this available.
Thank you for the info! If you think MMI is a reputable company, I will definitely give it a shot! I will let you know how it turns out. Thanks again, Michael.
Hi Michael,
I live in Illinois, and I got carried away with getting credit cards when I was 18. I was paying them off for a while, until I lost my job while in college, and with the course loads getting more intense, getting a job to pay my bills was out of the question. I was very fortunate and didn’t need to take out student loans, so the only debt on my credit score currently are several defaulted credit cards, all of which should be off my credit report by 01/15. My credit score is currently dismal, like under 500, and I wanted to know what should I do to try to fix this mess. I’m moving out of state in a few months for graduate school, and I’d like to get my own apartment and not have to get subleases for the rest of my natural life for something that happened when I was a child. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
CRV – What state do you live in now, and what state are you moving to?
Do you have any accounts showing on your credit reports at all, other than the credit cards in collection?
I currently live in Illinois, and moving to New York.
I have one small school debt, under $1000, that should be off by 1/2015. The other debt is credit card debt, and that should also all be off by 1/2015.
Was the student loan in collections? Part of the issue is there are nearly only collections showing on your credit reports. You need to add positive credit, not just not have the negatives removed. If all you are looking for is getting cleared for an apartment, and no other financial products, no worries. Wait until January (sublease for short term until then if you have to), and those collections dropping from your credit will not hold you back. If you do intend to build credit, you can get started with a secured card, and add additional credit diversity in measured steps.
I really like the lay out, information, and functionality of the tools available with credit.com. Check that site for action steps, and even find the financial products you have the best shot at getting approved for that will help build your credit from the ground up.
Yes, it was in collections, and I’ve nearly finished paying them off.
As far as the credit cards, the limits were very small, like the highest was $500, but most of my debt is fees. So thanks for letting me know that waiting until January is my best step. And I’ll definitely check out credit.com for more information.
If I have other questions, I’ll come back in January or sooner.
Cheers!
Hi – thanks for this site.
I had a lot of old debts I racked up back in 2002 – then left the country for 12 years. I am now looking at coming back and all 3 of my credit reports show $0 balances. However Experion shows the history of one debt (10k) as transferred / purchased by another lender – but the status is set to ‘ok’ and $0 balance. Last payment in 2002. Am I all clear here? Or can I expect to be harassed by collection agents upon return? And will I be able to build credit with this new $o balance/ok status? Do lenders see the ‘transferred’ status – or do they just see a clear $0 credit report, like a fresh start? There don’t seem to be any negative comments. Thanks so much for your help.
You may get collection calls and letters if any of the debt collectors that have your accounts set alerts, or periodic reviews of your credit reports. You can manage those if and when they occur.
From what you shared, your credit reports are cleared up. Lenders will view you favorably… so to speak. It sounds like you have no recent credit history at all, so you need to build that up.
Last question, I think ;/
My ECMC account for student loan is not my orginal collector. It was LVNV,LLC which the government bought my debt then turned and contracted it to ECMC. My orginial diliquency has been since 2004. It shows it will be removed 06/2016. What can I do with this situation? I can’t pay it is still too much. I have not talked to them ever, ECMC. They show that it was reported, filed 2009. Sorry for all the questions, but I do appreciate your advice greatly!
This is one that you mentioned there being a judgment for?
No judgement. This ECMC has been around since 2009 and says it will be removed 06/2015. How likely is this? It is a private loan.
In my attempt to self-help, I disputed two collection agency amounts on my Experian Credit Report that had small amounts on charged off credit cards. Both accounts had been paid in full through wage garnishments in 2010 and 2011. I was hoping that if they could not verify that they would be deleted. Not so much. One actually reaged it by reporting it with a new amount.
I’m confused on how they can get a default judgement, garnish my paycheck, and then continue to try to collect and damage my credit even further.
I received a email notification today from Experian where they both came back verified as either updated or remained unchanged.
No. 1. This account was paid in full through a wage garnishment in 2011 for $2241.43. Why are they saying that I owe an additional $100, now $101.
UPDATED WITH NEW AMOUNT
Account Name LVNV FUNDING LLC (Mary Jane M Elliott P.C.)
Account # 4XXXXXXX
Account Type Debt Purchase
Balance $101.00 (Was $100, but after dispute they changed the amount to 101.00) – the effect as if new collection.
Date Opened 11/1/2008
Account Status Closed
Mo. Payment
Past Due $101.00
Payment Status Seriously past due date / assigned to attorney, collection agency, or credit grantor’s internal collection department
High Balance
Limit
Terms 1 Month
Comments Account in dispute-reported by subscriber
No. 2. This account was paid/satisfied in full through a wage garnishment in 2010 through a different agency Weber & Olcese, P.L.C. Have a copy of the Certificate of Satisfied Judgment from the firm. How can National Credit Adjust be charging me. For what?
REMAINED UNCHANGED
Account Name NATIONAL CREDIT ADJUST
Account # 54XXXXXXXX
Account Type Debt Purchase
Balance $99.00
Date Opened 12/1/2009
Account Status Closed
Mo. Payment
Past Due $99.00
Payment Status Seriously past due date / assigned to attorney, collection agency, or credit grantor’s internal collection department
High Balance
Limit
Terms 1 Month
Comments
Loise – I would encourage you to file detailed complaints with the CFPB. They could be credit reporting complaints, or debt collection complaints. Here is the page to start that process: https://www.consumerfinance.gov/complaint/
Be thorough with your complaint as possible. Post an update with the results when you know them (can take a few weeks), and lets go from there.
Credit card 6 Unifund CCR Partners v. [edit] (Oregon Court of Appeals Docket [edit]) and Unifund CCR Partners v. [edit] (Docket [edit])
Spoken contract 6 ORS 12.010
Written contract 6* ORS 12.080
Mortgage contract 6**
Promissory note 6 ORS 12.080
Judgment 10 ORS 12.070 and 18.150 to 18.162, and ORS 18.180
* 10 years for “sealed instrument” (ORS 12.070)
** Presumed.
How much does this one with Unifund show as owing?
This (sorry) was just a copy and paste of Oregon’s SOL. Those are not anything owed statement. I was tired when I was posting these yesterday.
Correction most of bad debt is from 1999 or 1998 and are paid debt or should be closed I thought?
The Bonniville above here is not true on their Date Filed. They have done this before. I had it corrected and now they are doing it again. This account should of been removed. It was first diliquent in 2005.
Sorry for all the posts, but I am so stressed and need advice as soon as you can.
Date Filed : 7/16/2009 ECMC Expires 6/2016 private loan Same as above too, private loan
Also, this one too, account repeats same acct # four times and same info date and everything, but with different amounts.
What can I do on this account? There is no way I can ever pay this back?
Date Filed: 02/12/1998 AES/SunTrust Bank “Student Loan Perm Assign Govert; Claim filed with Government.Expire 06/2015
Also, this account repeats same acct # four times and same info date and everything, but with different amounts.